Day 3 - Reaching Mount Shivling

Crossing the Bhagirathi River on foot is impossible and the attempt would be fatal in any case. The water is now, after the monsoon time brown and wild, numerous boulders in the water cause counter currents. We doubt even the world's best kayakers could handle it, so wild and boisterous is this river. With the melt water in spring, it not only changes color to a bright blue, as we experienced in Rishikesh in April, it also carries much more water.

A few years ago there was no need to cross the river, the path was crossing the glacier itself. But a landslide made the old way to the Gaumukh impassable and so we have to switch to the opposite bank. For this we use a lorry, a wagon made of heavy iron hanging on a thick wire rope, which is stretched over the river. This is sent from one side to the other by rope. It is hard work and our porters help us a lot. Even without any additional weight, the cart is very heavy, as we realize with dismay when we help pulling it.

To get to the other side, we fill up the cart. 6 people, backpacks, sometimes even a packer hangs on a rope below the wagon. At least 300 kg have to be pulled to the other side so umpteen times. We mix with another hiking group, help each other and need two and a half hours before we all finally reach on the other side.

The first few kilometers lead gently uphill over meadows, then we reach the tree line and it becomes rocky. This is followed by a steep climb over the boulders, rocks and loose scree. Each of the group climbs at its own pace, one or the other pushes its limits here, whether mentally - it is steep and high - or just physically by the steep climb in the sun with reduced CO2 content in the air.

Here follows another crossing of a smaller mountain stream. The water level is too high to manage the crossing with dry feet and so pants are rolled up, shoes taken off and we overcome the stream barefooted. Martin is smart, he puts on his hiking sandals, I walk barefooted. Here the weight of the backpack makes itself clearly noticeable for the first time, now there are 10kg weigh more on my tender soles.

Our Indian hiking mates are clearly at an advantage, they are used to walk barefoot. I wobble like a newly born foal through the ice-cold water to the other side, am glad about the helpful hands of the guides and even happier when I have my shoes on and feel my feet again. 

The climb drags on a bit, then we finally reach the high plateau of Tapovan at 4330m. The climb was worth it. In front of us lies an autumnal meadow, a small stream meanders gently through it and at the end the holy Mount Shivling stretches majestically into the sky. The peaks covered with snow, a few clouds catch on its flanks and the sun's rays bathe the scenery in a magical light. It is easy to understand why some hikers sit here on the rocks, facing Mount Shivling and meditating.

The name Shivling comes from the words Shiva and Linga. Shiva, one of the highest goodness in Hinduism and Linga, sign, symbol, origin. Mount Shivling is therefore the symbol and origin of Lord Shiva, which he is said to have created to settle a fight between Brahma and Vishnu, the other two most important gods in Hinduism.

To the right of the impressive Mount Shivling, Mount Meru rises into the sky. This is the most important mountain in Buddhism. 

To the left of Shivling, we are now closer to the Bhagirathi sisters. The peaks of all these mountains are still so damn far above, while we are already at an altitude of more than 4000m. Simply unimaginable. 

In this impressive landscape we set up our camp. Wind comes up and we quickly put several layers on top of each other, to not cool down completely. Then we roam around over the meadows and soak up the magic of this place in us.

For tea in the communal tent pasta with cheese sauce is served today. It tastes delicious, but because of this we barely manage our dinner later. After the obligatory check of oxygen saturation and heart rate, the group remains sitting in the tent, games are played. Among them our in Germany popular "I pack my suitcase" game. Outside, fog has rolled in with the dusk and it's nice and cozy in the tent with the group.

When we leave the group tent again after dinner, it has cleared up. Billions of stars shine in the firmament, the Milky Way stretches between Mount Meru and Mount Shivling. With these impressive images in our minds, we snuggle into our sleeping bags, the bottles with hot water warming our bellies.

You missed the first part of our hiking trip? This happened so far:

Arrival: Himalaya here we come

Day 1: The way along the Ganga river

Day 2: A stone's throw

And this is how our tour continues: Day 4: Descending to Gaumukh